Using a NTSC Wii in Europe

[Net Spectre]

So...here's the problem.
I have the NTSC Wii, need to connect it to the 220v. Should I buy the voltage converter, or purchasing the PAL AC adapter will be enough?

[Zorlon]

Just buy a PAL PSU for it, problem solved the output from a PAL PSU should be the same it's just the input from the wall socket that is different depending on the country you live in

My UK PAL one is 230V 50Hz input to 12v output (info here just so you can check as I do not have a NTSC Wii, but the output of the NTSC PSU should be that magic 12v)

A 3rd party one may be enough, but always best to go official but those are often over priced, just make sure it is for the correct region/country many PAL countries use different Power voltage

A 3rd party one is not going to do any harm to the Wii, if it blows it is only the PSU that goes but that is external to the Wii

[deadlegion]

What Zorlon has said is right.

But if there's even a slight chance you may want to get another out of region console in the future a voltage converter might be worth considering.

[Net Spectre]

Got a voltage converter. Everything works, so this problem is solved.

Because I don't want to start another thread, here are some quick questions regarding the softmode:
1) 4.2 or 4.3?
2)What is a HackMii and what is a ModMii?
3) Any recommended software besides HBC, BootMii and NeoGamma?

This is my first time modding the Wii, so I want to be extra careful.

[Zorlon]

1 older the better but both will work
2 ModMii is the best way to mod your Wii, HackMii is a part of the process and would be included with ModMii anyway
3 ModMii has everything you need, myself I use USB loader GX instead of NeoGamma, you need the newest versions they have that may still be in beta stage as the most USB loaders stable versions lack the newer advanced features

Extra Notes

The most outer USB port is the faster and recommended one to use for external storage

A USB HDD is the best you can use with the Wii, USB Sticks have lower compat and speed issues, finally using a SD card is not practical but you do need a SD card to mod the system

Best HDD format is Fat32 with 32bit clusters [more so if you have a Wii with GC ports] (windows on it's own will not do that, you need a 3rd party format tool, ModMii comes with one or you can use a the freeware tool called EaseUS Partition Master Home Edition)

You can now emulate Nand so there is less limitations to what you can install on your Wii, I would honest keep as little as possible program wise on the internal Nand space as that is very limited, emulated Nand is great for Wad installs such as WiiWare and Virtual Console games

GameCube can be played just fine mostly (a small number of games lack sound in parts due to the way it was streamed something like 10 games I don't remember off the top of my head) the Fat32/32bit clusters is a must for that to work

GameCube... you do need extra bit to get that working but can move onto that subject after you have the basics done, same for Nand emulation, but make sure you keep the nand backup you make during the install process with ModMii

Everything else can be stored on HDD now so once modded you do not require an SD card at all, that includes homebrew like emulators ect

Internal Nand must still store some things, HBC must be in the internal Nand and a few Nintendo channels you start with must also be kept there, the rest can be stored on the virtual Nand, I would also store saves in the internal Nand also I know I have ran out of space in my internal Nand and it only has the min required on it asides from that it's just save data, I use virtual nand for some games for save data but that can cause issues with some games aswell, hance I advise you use internal nand mostly for saves.

Wii games can be stored in WBFS format on the Fat32/32bit cluster drive so there is no need to format the drive as WBFS format any more, that's an old method that is not needed now

The reason you go for the most up to date revisions of the USB Loaders is for Nand Emulation GC game loading and listing everything that is on the HDD Wii games GC games Emulated Nand WiiWare and any other Wad installs, internal Nand if you wanted and Homebrew (aka HBC software)

P.S. Sorry about the huge post I got carried away with that one :/

[Net Spectre]

Sorry about the huge post I got carried away with that one :/

No-no, the more information means the better outcome, so I don't mind at all.

I've noticed that my Wii sometimes is having problems with picking up the Wiimote' signal. The hand cursor appears only when I get the Wiimote very close to the TV and the pick-up zone is very small. Everything is synced, and lights are glowing.

I think that something is disrupting the signal, but what?

[Zorlon]

No-no, the more information means the better outcome, so I don't mind at all.

I've noticed that my Wii sometimes is having problems with picking up the Wiimote' signal. The hand cursor appears only when I get the Wiimote very close to the TV and the pick-up zone is very small. Everything is synced, and lights are glowing.

I think that something is disrupting the signal, but what?

It is rather poor for cursor pickup, there might be nothing wrong with it 2 to 3 meters is apx it's limit 3 meters and longer you will get signal loss

[Net Spectre]

Any ideas how to fix it? I don't understand why it works like that. Signal is very faint(as I've said, very little pick-up zone) and I can't get any other reaction(only Home button works, others - only in the pick-up zone).

[Zorlon]

New Batteries in the Mote's

All the buttons should work even if you are outside the pointer pick-up zone

[Net Spectre]

New Batteries in the Mote's

All the buttons should work even if you are outside the pointer pick-up zone

Replaced them today (Sony ones). I'll try to re-insert them, maybe it's static...

[Zorlon]

re-insert the censor bar as well but that should not effect the buttons or anything just the pointer pickup

I'm not sure what could be effecting the Wii motes signal though (not the pointer pickup) that is just odd to me

Also make sure the motes can see the actual console front, the console is what picks up the signal not the censor bar that just picks the pointer up and is only powered by the Wii it does not even send a signal to the Wii, the motes do that part