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Anyone had much experience using step down DC buck converters? Specifically the variable type.
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Excellent.
I've got an old GBA grip/battery pack here that has 2x what appear to be AA batteries and I assume they would be nimh 1.2v. I have other GBA battery packs here that are nimh but these particular cells have no identification on them at all they are just plain blue colour (I remember seeing plain rechargeable batteries like this back in the days of nicad).
Anyway, like other GBA battery packs this thing uses a Game Boy Color type charger, 3v DC. I don't actually have the charger or a color charger but I have verified the specs are the same.
I was thinking of pulling the old cells (they're tabbed with wires) and putting in some AA or AAA packs instead, so if the cells get tired the unit can be opened up (phillips head screws) and batteries swapped out easily.
Would just using a buck converter and like a usb-c or whatever before the batteries be sufficient in this case or should anything extra be added in for protection?
I mean replace the old DC 3v socket with usb-c.
Last edited by deadlegion; 28th-November-2020 at 08:54. Reason: missing an L from phillips, my bad
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Actually, if I tried a 4x AAA setup would it be ok to run 2x buck converters? One before the batteries (drop to 4.8v) and one after batteries (drop to 3v).
Or in that scenario is the first converter totally unnecessary as 5v going into 4.8v worth of nimh is ok? I'm not sure about this really, I mean it seems that these standard packs appear to have 2.4v worth of nimh taking a 3v charge input
I'm thinking full 3v running into the console is better than 2.4v, and 4x AAA should probably fit. Unlikely I could squeeze 4x AA in there including holders.
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It's one of these things (same colour actually) and one of my GBA's is a matching colour too...
For inside pics I can't find anything online, my phone can't take decent pictures so I'm not confident about giving that a try.
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With the USB port I might actually go larger, possibly micro or even mini. There seems to be a bit of space there but I'll see.
For fixing the port in place most people seem to say hot glue (for diy projects in general) but is it really necessary? I mean is epoxy ok?
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Hmm.
Finding it a bit hard to find a USB charge pcb. I found a few for "charging Li-Ion" but I think those aren't any good for this? Says 4.2v charge voltage.
Actually some of those listings don't state Li-Ion anyway so idk...
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The Li-Ion usb charge boards seemed to be TP4056. For Arduino?
Maybe I should just can this project![]()
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Actually, I can see notes about not leaving this TP4056 connected to a battery for months because it uses micro amps.
I guess a switch could be added though to turn the module on and off for charging purposes
So one of these TP4056 modules, a LiPo battery (I might actually have a new unused large thin type here from some kind of modern smart phone) and then the buck converter to drop 3.7v down to 3v should work?
Not the same as my idea of having AAA nimh packs, which I would prefer tbh as I have a good stock of them atm and keep picking up more.
But I guess if the LiPo is feasible, it's just a matter of me collecting some of those batteries as future spares.
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I've got 2x LiPo usb modules here now, both use micro usb input.
One is smaller footprint with 1x 1A usb output.
The other is larger (well, longer) and has 1x 1A plus 1x 2A usb outputs.
Both have a switch for onboard battery level led (4) sets.
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Yikes! Got a BSOD a few minutes ago![]()
Laptop?
Are you still running win7?
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Desktop. and yeah win 7 ultimate.
Looks like it was an Nvidia driver. Everything's fine now.
Think I was just pushing it too hard.