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Thread: Atari 2600 modding/repairing

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    Default Atari 2600 modding/repairing

    well I took a little time tonight to crack open my 6 switch atari and found the problem. the problem was the power adapter on the back of the unit the system works except the power doesn't want to stay on I used the same ac adapter that i use for my 4 switch unit. it's almost like the plug is too small for the 6 switch even though they both use a 3.5mm style plug.
    now I got to thinking about replacing the power adapter on the unit itself now I'm wondering if it's possible to use a different power adapter like one from a nes or would I have to find one specifically for an atari 2600?
    any thoughts, help, tips would be appreciated.
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    Pretty sure anything that has the same voltage rating, and the same or more mA rating will be ok (device will only draw what it needs)

    Not sure about the 2600 specs, is it 9V DC 500mA?


    Edit:
    Oh and polarity has to be correct obviously
    Last edited by deadlegion; 27th-December-2015 at 04:28.

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    Chances are that the receptacle has cracked from your mobo. This happens pretty easily if it is bumped with the cable in.

    What I did was removed the connector all together and replaced it with a more common shape, such as that of the nes. What I suggest for you is to replace the connector with a new 3.5mm connector. It will be tight and clean.

    Something DL did not mention is that you need to beware of AC supplies and DC supplies. Your atari wants DC, Because it is a direct connection to the 7805 regulator internally. The nes power supply is an AC supply, so i t will not work unless you add extra hardware to rectify the AC source and some massive capacitors to smooth it out.

    If memory serves, you should be able to use a DC power supply of something like 6v to 12v, but 9 is ideal.

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    Quote Originally Posted by deadlegion View Post
    Pretty sure anything that has the same voltage rating, and the same or more mA rating will be ok (device will only draw what it needs)

    Not sure about the 2600 specs, is it 9V DC 500mA?


    Edit:
    Oh and polarity has to be correct obviously
    9V DC is all I know not sure what mA it is.
    Last edited by Grouch; 27th-December-2015 at 04:53. Reason: removed reply from inside quote
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzmarazz View Post
    Chances are that the receptacle has cracked from your mobo. This happens pretty easily if it is bumped with the cable in.

    What I did was removed the connector all together and replaced it with a more common shape, such as that of the nes. What I suggest for you is to replace the connector with a new 3.5mm connector. It will be tight and clean.

    Something DL did not mention is that you need to beware of AC supplies and DC supplies. Your atari wants DC, Because it is a direct connection to the 7805 regulator internally. The nes power supply is an AC supply, so i t will not work unless you add extra hardware to rectify the AC source and some massive capacitors to smooth it out.

    If memory serves, you should be able to use a DC power supply of something like 6v to 12v, but 9 is ideal.
    Yeah I forgot to mention that, it's something that might be overlooked by somebody not aware of differences. I nearly forgot about polarity anyway

    Quote Originally Posted by Grouch View Post
    9V DC is all I know not sure what mA it is.
    It would be under 1A I guess.
    Last edited by deadlegion; 27th-December-2015 at 04:54. Reason: merged posts

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzmarazz View Post
    Chances are that the receptacle has cracked from your mobo. This happens pretty easily if it is bumped with the cable in.

    What I did was removed the connector all together and replaced it with a more common shape, such as that of the nes. What I suggest for you is to replace the connector with a new 3.5mm connector. It will be tight and clean.

    Something DL did not mention is that you need to beware of AC supplies and DC supplies. Your atari wants DC, Because it is a direct connection to the 7805 regulator internally. The nes power supply is an AC supply, so i t will not work unless you add extra hardware to rectify the AC source and some massive capacitors to smooth it out.

    If memory serves, you should be able to use a DC power supply of something like 6v to 12v, but 9 is ideal.
    would a new 3.5mm plug be something that is easy to find?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grouch View Post
    would a new 3.5mm plug be something that is easy to find?
    Yup. You'll have to make sure it is the right footprint though, (right angle, mono).
    Like this:

    http://m.ebay.com/itm/5p-1-8-3-5mm-F....c100408.m2460

    I did not look hard, mind you. You could easily find one cheaper and in the states.

    Also, the atari connector might have a pin off to the side rather than all pins being lined up like in my link. I don't have one in front of me right now to check.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzmarazz View Post
    Yup. You'll have to make sure it is the right footprint though, (right angle, mono).
    Like this:

    http://m.ebay.com/itm/5p-1-8-3-5mm-F....c100408.m2460

    I did not look hard, mind you. You could easily find one cheaper and in the states.

    Also, the atari connector might have a pin off to the side rather than all pins being lined up like in my link. I don't have one in front of me right now to check.
    mine is a straight line so that plug you linked to would work. when soldering is there a special solder I should use or would a flux/no flux solder work?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grouch View Post
    mine is a straight line so that plug you linked to would work. when soldering is there a special solder I should use or would a flux/no flux solder work?
    I use a leaded/flux core solder. But I also use a liquid flux pen; more commonly available in a tub of paste. Flux assists in heat distribution and surface/contaminent cleaning. If the old existing solder or HASL/ENIG surface has oxidized, it will be very difficult for you to solder it. Flux makes this a billion times more easy to do.

    While you're making some purchases, grab a spool of copper solder wick to help remove the old solder currently bonding the old jack to the mobo.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzmarazz View Post
    I use a leaded/flux core solder. But I also use a liquid flux pen; more commonly available in a tub of paste. Flux assists in heat distribution and surface/contaminent cleaning. If the old existing solder or HASL/ENIG surface has oxidized, it will be very difficult for you to solder it. Flux makes this a billion times more easy to do.

    While you're making some purchases, grab a spool of copper solder wick to help remove the old solder currently bonding the old jack to the mobo.
    ok will do that. thanks.
    Last edited by Grouch; 27th-December-2015 at 05:22.
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    Suck it up

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    I have a question in regards to controllers since I think it still falls under this subject.
    I find the cable length on the joysticks to be a bit short is it possible to use a DB9 serial extension cable as a joystick extension cable?
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    Very likely, yes. There is the factor of cable length and the amount of current required to accurately transfer data the full length, but it should be fine within reason.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzmarazz View Post
    Very likely, yes. There is the factor of cable length and the amount of current required to accurately transfer data the full length, but it should be fine within reason.
    I was thinking a 3ft cable.
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    Smoke 'em if ya got 'em. (give it a shot)

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