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Thread: PS1 Burning Tips

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    Default PS1 Burning Tips

    Just last week I found out my Gameshark can be used for Imports & Back-Up's & I had that GSCD for like 8 years I didn't even know

    My Playstation is SCPH-7001

    I know Verbatim CD-R's are the Good Brand

    I'm going to start burning at 4x Speed using IMGburn

    I burned Einhander at 2x and Street Fighter Zero 3 at 2x

    Einhander works, but Skips, I think I have a weak laser..I have to test it out on another PS1

    Street Fighter Zero 3 didn't load, Prob need it to be patched

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    I'm supersized anyone has burning hardware that can burn at 2x now

    Brand = Nothing, what counts is where they are manufactured

    Verbatim's can be bad as much as any other brand

    4x may provide better results, you won't know until you try though

    Zero 3 has no copy protection but does have multi tracks that is odd as they are both data tracks

    Sound's like you are using a swap trick, but this will have issues with multi track discs and discs that have a higher toc to the disc used to swao with and will not help for games like Metal Gear Solid that will let you play CD 1 but you will not be able to proceed onto CD 2
    Last edited by Zorlon; 18th-October-2017 at 19:24.

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    Now I got UniROM working with my CD-R's at 4x

    But Einhänder won't boot at all, I wasted like 4 CD's on that Game, Burned at 4x, 5x, 20x nothing

    All 6 CD-R's work, But not that one

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    Well I have been burning PS1 games for years, I have tried countless CD-Rs brands, burners and software and I can give you my two cents of knowledge on the topic, always granted that you are patient enough to read through. Anyhow the best ones are either Verbatim DataLifePlus Super Azo CD-R made in Japan by Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation or Verbatim CD-R Pastel Disc made in Japan by Taiyo Yuden Co LTD. Problem is that these days the Verbatim you find in shops (atleast in Europe) are made respectively in China or India (I have verified CD-Rs manufacturers using a software called CDR Identifier) and the quality is as poor as unbranded generic all purpose CD-Rs bought for dirty cheap from the local thrift store. As far as my knowledge goes is impossible to find retailers who carry the upper mentioned brands of CD-Rs, since I believe that they have not been manufactured in many years. Your best bet will be to find some "new old" stock of such and snatch it before somebody else does.
    The best software for making perfect backups is CloneCD (Always granted that you have created a proper profile for ripping and burning PS1 games, without that the result may vary quite much) since once you are ripping the PS1 game, the program can generate a CCDA file. (The topic itself is pretty elaborated and long I do not want to bother you explaining why you should always burn using the CCDA file, once I burned a copy of Tombi! starting from the Cue file, and nonetheless it worked, the FMVs were jittery, while the same image burned on the same media using the CDDA file resulted in perfect FMVs.) Anyhow moving forward, even if you use the best medias and software combo, if you do not have a suitable CD/DVD Drive, that can burn at a proper speed you are bound to burn coasters once in a while. I myself use an HP CD-writer 9300 series which can burn at 1x speed, previously I used to use the Drive on my 2002 Fujitsu Laptop which burned at 4x, and I noticed that the games burned at 1x speed seems to run smoother and end up having no audio or video issues compared to the once burned at 4x. I own three PS1 all with modchip installed, scph 7502, scph 9001 and a PSone scph-101 and on all of them, each backup I have burned using the right CD-Rs, CloneCD and 1x speed CD-R Drive combo resulted in success, with a backup copy that plays exactly as the "original" counterpart.
    Last edited by Cr.Mark; 19th-October-2017 at 13:27.

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    I think I haver one of the Good CD-R's

    Verbatim America LLC 2012
    Mitsubishi/Kagaku/Media Company

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    Personally I have never heard or seen such specific Verbatim brand, since I do live in Europe, but as long as the discs are manufactured in Japan you can be assured that you have a high quality product to burn to, meaning not only that the chances of burning coaster or jittery images are far less, but also the life span of the data burnt onto the media will be way longer compared to the life span of the image burnt onto Indian/Chinese manufactured medias. (Always granted that you are burning using a proper software/method/speed combo. Also to take notice is the fact that certain PS1 laser unit are more picky than others, my SCPH 9001 is able to read Sony CD-R while my SCPH 7502 refuses to run such discs.) With CD-Rs everything boils down to the dye of a CD-R which is the organic layer where data is recorded to. Common cheapo discs use Cyanine pigment, which gives them a lifespan of about 10 years, the best dye that you can hope for is PhthaloCyanine or Azo pigments, the durability of such CD-R's is said to be over 100 years, but probably neither me or you will live that long to be able to verify such claim. So basically if your discs do not have any problems with aging process, meaning the data will be still there in 20-25 years from when you burned them, while you were burning them no errors popped up and you were able to write at all speeds they were supposed to be able to handle, well you got yourself high quality CD-R media.
    Last edited by Cr.Mark; 21st-October-2017 at 11:19.

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