Super Famicom power supply questions

The original power supply is actually a famicom psu (HVC-002) afaik, so this?:

Input: 100v AC 50/60Hz
Output: DC 10v 850mA (center negative)



Now I don't have a genuine fami psu but I do have a couple of options at hand, just wondering if option 1 is ok to try (damaging the psu in an attempt is fine btw I'm only concerned about the console).
Option 1 has removable tips to switch polarity.
Option 2 will require cutting the cable and switching wires around to get the right polarity (which is why I'm wondering if option 1 would work instead).



Option 1
Input: 100-240v AC 50/60Hz
Ouput: DC 9v 0.8A


Option 2
Input: 100-240v AC 50/60Hz
Output: DC 9v 1A


If both options are risky I can always try to source another psu (closer to spec) from junk, it's the right time of year for a lot of random shit to show up :booger:

Thanks in advance for any input.

I have so far only been able to find the full Schematics for the NTSC Super Nintendo, but going by that it would be perfectly safe to plug in a DC power supply as low as 7v due to the forward voltage drop of the PB1100 (0.75v) and the behavior of the 7805 regulator show in the graph.

https://i.stack.imgur.com/9V0VJ.png
SCHEMATIC PDF:
https://wiki.superfamicom.org/upload...atic_color.pdf

Looking at the schematic, "VS" which is the filtered and fuse-protected input voltage only connects to the upper rails of the audio circuit. So the worst case of low voltage here is clipped audio.

IMO

I've read that DC 9v is perfectly fine though the original fami psu is 10v.
But the thing I'm wondering about is option 1 being only 0.8A while the fami psu is 850mA ouput? Is the slight difference of no concern? Like I said I'm only worried about the console, psu doesn't matter but it would be nice not to have fire/smoke.


Edit:

Did some more reading and saw this...

Quote:

---

You can use a power supply that varies as follows:
Voltage Output: Minimum 9VDC Maximum 11VDC
Ampere Output: Minimum 700mA, Maximum: -Unlimited-

---

https://www.famicomworld.com/forum/i...p?topic=6933.0


I'm guessing that means option 1 is safe then?

The original PSU has to offer specs above what is necessary, so 50mA lower is probably trivial. And if the current draw is too high, the PSU will drop voltage and the 7805 will virtually shut down. Worst case your PSU may overheat, but it probably has protection built into itself.

Just saw your edit. So yeah, you have nothing to worry about with option 1.

Did a short test run and option 1 seems to be working ok :)
Thanks.

Now that you have it settled, buy Secret of Evermore. Best game ever. =)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jazzmarazz

Now that you have it settled, buy Secret of Evermore. Best game ever. =)

---

I only bought Wizardry V as a cheap test cart :P
Not really planning on buying any other carts, but if Japanese carts turn up somewhere locally cheap I might consider them. I can't be bothered importing US carts tbh, wrong size and not cheap.


Edit:
:] I'm very happy this console is working ok. I got it for virtually nothing (as junk) but was concerned someone might've tried using the wrong psu with it and broke it.